Friday, June 22, 2007

June 2007 RantRhapsody

Appreciative Listeners,

THE BROOKLYN RAIL PRESENTS RANTRHAPSODY #11
JUNE 17TH, BOWERY POETRY CLUB, 8:00PM

Summer's on and back we bounce to where it all began for us, the
downtown temple to the word, Bowery Poetry Club (308 Bowery @
Bleeker). The bright lights, the big stage, the beautiful people,
it's all there, and we've missed it, and they tell me they've missed
us too. So this month we shall reunite for a full evening of odd and
insightul stories.Please join us for the edifying, amusing, anecdotal,
analytical, political, polemical, and poignant musings of the
following angry and/or euphoric writers:

Tim Doody, Brevity, Best Gay Erotica 2006
Jean Railla, author, Get Crafty
Sascha Dubrul, Writer, Lunatic, Punk Rock Farmer, Co-Founder of Icharus Project
Leah Ryan, Punk Planet, 400 Words, at work on a novel called The Other One
Jason Wachtelhausen, contributor to Adbusters,WIRED, ReadyMade, Skope, 400 Words
Vanessa Wruble, vanessawithoutborders, at work on book about Sierra Leone

THEY CAN'T STOP US- An Excerpt
Tim Doody

I'm waiting for the sun to set, for my shift to end, so I can pedal into my favorite part of Manhattan, an emerald oasis right in the center of all the concrete canyons. But I'm so not there yet. On Broadway, I steer my road bike between columns of men (and some women) doing the black-suit-shuffle, cut west to pick up my thirty-fourth package of the day at the World Financial Center, turn east to drop off at 120 Wall Street, and then north to an alley in Chinatown, where I climb the stairs to the second floor and hand over a manila envelope to a man who kneads his hands behind a counter. As I wait for his signature, I inhale the incense from a candle-lit Buddhist shrine. Behind him, several rows of women move fabric through the stabbing needles of sewing machines.
I plummet back down the stairs, skipping over every other step, and ponder the sheer number of daily encounters in this city, their anonymity and intimacy, how cultures clash, cavort, merge. Then I'm back in the streets jostling with vendors and taxis and tourists, everybody staking out a claim to space. Sirens scream. New sweat drips down the old sweat that's caked to my face from the last seven hours of exertion and summer heat.
Sometimes, I hate that I get CEOs what they need, when they need it, in death-defying time, for semiadequate wages. Maybe that's why I scream a war cry as I near a crosswalk filled with commuters moving against the light. My voice and my barreling bike part the commuters so fast that one guy's knees jerk up high enough to almost touch the tip of his nose. It takes me ten minutes to stop laughing.
Once I get through Midtown, weaving between cars that stop and go and shift lanes, I drop off my last parcels, radio in to say see you tomorrow. I turn my bike from the four lanes of 59th Street into Central Park, where the noise of the city subsides to a hum. A dozen blocks later, on a footpath, I unhitch the Kryptonite chain from my waist and wrap it around the bike frame and a bench. Finally.
I peel off my T-shirt, stuff it into the messenger bag that's still slung over my right shoulder, and plop onto the bench to watch the sun crouch down behind the Beresford, the twin-towered San Remo, and the other buildings of the Upper West Side. Then I slink along the dirt paths of the Ramble, around its oaks, maples, and glacial rocks, and stop near a footbridge spanning a brook. The minutes slip by, taking the last bit of natural light with them.
A clear night here turns strangers into silhouettes. But on a cloudy night, like tonight, the eternal lights of New York City are captured and then refracted in an orange glow that peeks under tree tops and reveals glimpses: shiny Adidas pants with racer stripes hugging boy hips; a nipple ring glimmering in the light down of a defined chest; a knit cap above a square jaw.
Two guys stare each other down like gunslingers about to draw. I hear footsteps. I glance behind me, see tousled hair and lips forming a soundless coo.
Come here often? the guy behind me says with a smirk and a voice that’s as serpentine as his fingers sliding through my bleach-blond dreadlocks. His hand doesn't stop at my shoulders, where my hair ends, but meanders around my messenger bag and then traces down even further. I suck in summer air, arch my back. He slips his fingers inside my spiked belt and combat pants, snapping the band of the neon yellow spandex shorts beneath.
He leans in closer, till his chest hair tickles my back. I smell sandalwood and sweat. I turn toward him.
Like what you see? he asks.
He steps into a shard of that orange glow: stubbly cheeks, the indent of tight abs. He's Middle Eastern, maybe Latino. It's too hard to tell out here. He wears jeans and, like me, no shirt.
I nod.
I reach down, stroke the rough metal of his jeans zipper. Snake Boy, that's what I'll call him on account of his voice and fingers.
We step off the path, back up against the bark of an oak, and I'm rubbing his rounded biceps. Snake Boy’s biceps are so slick with sweat that my hands glide. I lean in and exhale heat into his ear and massage it with my tongue. He moans and then leans down, closes his lips over my left nipple.
I unzip his jeans and he tugs down my combat pants. And there's that feeling of being exposed outdoors, hips suddenly sensitized to the slight swirl of breeze.
Snake Boy licks my neck, looks up into my eyes, and maybe it's the darkness but his black lashes look like eyeliner.
Here, he says, breathe. He holds a small bottle to my nose. When I inhale, the pungent chemicals burn my nostrils, everything melts, and I'm just a flushed face and a beating heart. And a stiff cock. Which he slides a hand up and down. I'm jerking him off too. Our mouths are locked, the whole world reduced to me and him. We're pulsing flesh, a single heartbeat.
Suddenly, everything turns bright white like the sun just pole-vaulted into the night sky. When my eyes flash open, I see that the light emanates from what must be an electric cop car, the kind with a silent engine. I yank my pants up as fast as I can. Too late. My hands shake. Red and blue lights flash behind the white. Snake Boy grabs my hand and says Run, and he runs and I stumble and then run. Sirens scream and hard-shelled feet clomp the earth behind us and our hands break apart so we can run faster—through brush, I feel stings, know my calves just got shredded, but it doesn't even hurt; up over a steep knoll and slipping, tumbling down the other side; into more brush, Snake Boy's still right in front of me. We're long-stepping rock to rock along a narrow stream and then running on the other side. We duck down into a gully. Angry voices, radio static, the crunch of foliage. These sounds get louder. And recede. My arteries throb, my chest heaves, and Snake Boy has his hands on his knees as he draws in ragged breaths. We stay crouched for fifteen minutes until he says he knows a place where they won't find us.

A year ago, when I was twenty-five, I first stumbled into the Ramble. Since then, I've made it the finale to my evening commute. The Ramble is a micro-forest in the heart of Central Park. Paths grip cliffsides, double back, and meander along slopes. The dense brush and trees provide an infinite variety of alcoves. At its southernmost point, a cock-shaped peninsula projects into Azalea Pond, a topographical totem to the men who have been coming here for over a century. And still they come: uptown boys in do-rags, downtown artists wearing paint-spattered pants, even middle-aged men from the Upper East Side. Just trees and rocks and sky and us.
And, obviously, cops. They patrol in vehicles or wear plainclothes to try to surprise us. Queers scatter under the beams of headlights or, after a big bust, line up in handcuffs.

It's not like I wouldn't have run. I just got totally startled. You should've seen what I did to the cops last month. It was a typical night in the Ramble, and I had just walked down the gravel path of the peninsula. At its proverbial head, this cop shined a light in my face.
Did you lose your dog? he asked me.
I saw a poodle around here somewhere, another cop said.
I turned around to leave and they got into their souped-up golf carts and followed me, the headlights blazing on my backside. My face burned with a blend of shame and rage. They finally swerved away and the night draped back around me.
I remembered reading about a tactic that eco-warriors had used to save national forests from the jaws of timber corporations. They dragged fallen trees and other objects from the forest floor into the logging roads, creating blockades. The logging trucks backed out; the forest lived another day.
So I began dragging rocks, branches, and decaying tree trunks into the paths. Some queers looked over at me with raised eyebrows or walked a wide U around my mounting fortifications.
We have to bash back, I said. Fuck Giuliani. My exhortations were accompanied by the sound of long branches splashing through fallen leaves.
A queen in a leather trench coat and a shaved head stopped and smiled. Girlfriend, she said, you bangin' on the wasp nest tonight, ain't you?
I prayed no undercovers would see or hear me, but I didn't stop. Not until I had erected three barricades along a path that was several feet wider than a car. Unplanned, the barricades went from smallest to tallest. The tallest was over eight feet (a fallen tree with an umbrella of intact branches provided the base). Behind it was the gazebo, the place the cops most love to surprise us—that's where group scenes often happen.
Five minutes passed. Some cops in an electric car drove in to start another sweep of the area. They pulled up to the lowest of the barricades and...a crash, a scraping of rock and wood on metal.
Their lights started flashing and the vehicle remained stationary for a full minute before continuing forward. They were heading toward the next barricade.
Other queers stood in clumps, watching, waiting. Some of them snickered.
The cops hit the next barricade without seeing it, the sound of damage much louder. This time, the car didn't move. One of them sounded the sirens and must have radioed for backup, because an SUV spun down another path, headed toward the gazebo, lights flashing. The driver slammed the brakes right before the third barricade.
Within five minutes, a sea of red and blue lights pulsed along the peripherals of the Ramble as dozens of backup units arrived. I hoped everyone prowling these paths could forgive me for fucking up their night of cruising. But I also hoped me and my barricades were just one tiny episode in a history of resistance spanning decades, and that somewhere, like-minded, more effective others were lurking, anticipating how and when to strike again. I unlocked my bike and pedaled away.



WALKING THE EDGE OF INSANITY
Sascha Altman DuBrul
http://theicarusproject.net

I.
I was 18 years old the first time they locked me up in a psych ward. The police found me walking on the subway tracks in New York City and Iwas convinced the world was about to end and I was being broadcast live on primetime TV on all the channels. After I’d been walking along the tracks through three stations, the cops wrestled me to the ground, arrested me, and brought me to an underground jail cell and then the emergency room of Bellevue psychiatric hospital where they strapped me to a bed. Once they managed to track down my terrified mother, she signed some papers, a nurse shot me up with some hardcore anti-psychotic drugs, and I woke up two weeks later in the “Quiet Room” of a public mental hospital upstate. I spent the next two and a half months of my life there, another couple months in this strange private “behavior modification” program/half way house that my mom put me in, and the next bunch of years of my life trying to figure out how to set my life up in such a way that that shit would never happen to me again. Before the big dramatic crash back in New York, that whole previous year I’d gone off to college and had been living on the other side of the country in Portland, Oregon. I’d lost contact with most of my old friends and had basically spent the school year studying in the library, immersed in academic books and ignoring the outside world. At some point in the Spring, around finals time, I’d gotten sick and gone
to the school heath clinic. The short version of the story is that the nurse gave me a prescription for penicillin and I had an allergic reaction to it and almost died. To counteract the effects of the penicillin, the hospital gave me a hard core steroid called Prednizone which totally fucked up my sleeping schedule and, along with the bit of mescaline and lots of pot and coffee I’d been indulging in early that year, sent me off the deep end.It seemed innocent at first, if not a little strange. Somehow I managed to have this infinite amount of energy – I’d ride my bike really fast everywhere and do tons of sit-ups and push-ups after sleeping badly for two hours. Pretty quickly I slipped into a perpetually manic state, and by the Summertime had this idea to start a food co-op at our school which somehow mushroomed into this grandiose plot to destabilize the US economy by printing our own currency! That was just the tip of theiceberg though. I seemed to have a new idea every couple hours, all involving connecting different people and projects up with each other, and actually managed to convince a number people around me that myideas were really good. We started stockpiling food, putting flyers around town, and building our little empire. Then it got even crazier. I started to think the radio was talking to me and I was seeing all these really intense meanings in the billboards downtown and on the highways that no one else was seeing. I was convinced there were subliminal messages everywhere trying to tell a small amount of people that the world was about to go through drastic changes and we needed to be ready for it. That year in school I’d been studying anthro-linguistics and I was totally fascinated by language and how the words we use shape our perception of reality. I started reading way too much meaning into everything. People would talk to me and I was convinced there was this whole other language underneath what we thought we were saying that everyone was using without even realizing it. It seemed like a big computer program someone had written or an ancient riddle or just some kind of cosmic joke. It always seemed like people were saying one thing to me but actually saying the complete opposite at the same time. It was very confusing. Whatever was going on, it was obvious I was the only one who could see it because no one knew what the hell I was talking about! I’d try to explain myself but no one seemed to understand me. At some point it got to where I couldn’t even finish a sentence without starting another one
because everything was so fucking urgent. There was so much to say I couldn’t even get the words out without more new stuff that needed to be said appearing on my tongue.


One of the things that made the situation so complicated and inevitably so tragic was that no one really knew me well enough to know that I’d totally lost my shit and was about to crash really hard. In 1992 Portland was not the cool anarcho-mecca it is today. The folks around me were just like: “Oh, that’s Sascha – the guy doing the food co-op thing. He’s just a little crazy.” No one seemed to be able to see the signs that I was having a psychotic breakdown and if they did, they were too scared to get anywhere near me for fear I was going to bite them or something. Thankfully I took what I thought was going to be a quick trip to Berkeley and my old friends realized immediately that something was definitely wrong. They called my mom, she bought me a plane ticket over the phone, and they somehow managed to get me to the airport and on a
plane back East. When I arrived at the airport my mom was there to pick me up and bring me back to her apartment. I remember her telling me that in the morning she was going to take me to see “a man that could help me.” I didn’t like the sound of that much and it was obvious that they’d brainwashed her memory clean so that she wouldn’t remember what
an important role she was playing in the grand scheme. She fell asleep around the time the sun was rising and I snuck out.

After I’d been in the psych ward for awhile they diagnosed me with something called bipolar disorder (or manic-depression) and, along with a whole pile of other pills they were shoving down my throat, gave me a mood stabilizing drug called Depacote. They told my mom to get used to the idea that her son had a serious mental disorder he was going to be
grappling with for the rest of his life. I didn’t realize it at the time, but I, like millions of other Americans, would spend years wrestling with the implications of that diagnosis. Manic-depression kills tens of thousands of people, mostly young people, every year. Statistically, one out of every five people diagnozed with the disease ends up doing themselves in. But I wasn’t
convinced, to say the least, that gulping down a hand full of pills everyday would make me sane. Honestly, at the time I thought it was a bunch of bullshit. Their treatment of me on the ward didn’t give me much faith in the medical establishment. The mental ward was like some kind of twisted circus where the psychiatrists would come visit everyday and write our scripts with these huge expensive gold and silver Cross pens emblazoned on the side with the names “Prozac” and “Xanax” while we all sat there, shaking and drooling on ourselves, staring off into space and pacing the white hallways. It was a fuckin nightmare.

I’m not really sure why, but that bipolar diagnosis didn’t last very long. By the time I got out of the halfway house I’d ended up in five months later, the doctors were blaming the whole incident on bad drug interactions: the high levels of Prednizone they gave me at the hospital mixed with all the coffee I’d been drinking and hallucinogens I’d been doing. It had just been too much for my fragile system. It was going to take a while to recover, but I’d be able to lead a normal, healthy life like the rest of the population. That was good news for sure.

For years afterwards that whole period of time was something that I somehow just shelved away into a far corner of my brain cause I never knew quite what to make of it. Somehow it didn’t all fit together. It just became another one of my crazy stories that I’d share with new friends’ sometimes if they were getting to know me. “Yeah, ha ha, I’m kinda loonytoons, for real, man: check out what happened to me when I was a teenager…” But lingering in the back of my mind was always this
fear that somehow I was going to end up getting locked up again.

For someone who had been diagnosed with a “serious mental illness,” the next six years of my life were pretty amazing. I traveled and worked and had big adventures all over the places with amazing folks. The company I kept didn’t stigmatize people who were a little eccentric or weird, if anything we reveled in it, wore it on our sleeves. It seemed pretty obvious to me that my crazy behavior as a teenager had been a perfectly natural reaction to being raised in a crazy environment. You have to understand this part of the story though: I was raised by parents with pretty radical leftist politics who taught me to question everything and always be skeptical of big business and capitalism. I also spent my teenage years growing up in the punk scene which actually glorified craziness and disrespect for authority. Also, from the time I was a little kid everyone always said that I was very sensitive to the world around me and the suffering of others, maybe too sensitive, and I just chalked it up to that. My world view didn’t leave any room open for the possibility that my instability and volatility might actually have something to do with inherent biology. So I went on with my life.

II.
My mom came home from work one early Spring evening to find that I wascurled up on her kitchen floor, almost catatonic, telling her that I was really sorry but I just couldn’t take it anymore and I was going to kill myself. I was 24 years old. My hands were covered in cuts that I’d let get infected because I was too preoccupied to pay attention to what was going on with my body. My clothes were dirty and torn. I was getting lost in neighborhoods that I normally knew like the back of my
hand and couldn’t look anyone in the eye when I talked to them. There was a repeating tape loop in my head constantly telling me what a horrible person I was and that I was a liar and a hypocrite and a coward and I didn’t deserve to live. In fact I was obsessed with killing myself. It was like a broken record – throwing myself in front of a car, jumping out of a window, shooting myself in the back of the head, carbon monoxide in the garage, swallowing a bottle of pills, etc. It was exhausting and horrible and I was convinced it was never going to end, I was living in my own personal hell. The strangest part was that a couple months earlier I’d been on top of the world. Focused and clear and driven, getting up in front of crowds and giving
talks about exciting and revolutionary things – organizing half a dozen projects – I was the model of an activist. I hardly had time to sleep. But at some point in the middle of it all I just crashed. I stopped being able to get out of bed. All the confidence I’d had suddenly disappeared. I stopped being able to focus on anything and I started feeling very awkward around even my oldest friends. All my people were really confused about what to do for me. One by one all my projects
fell apart till they were all just a halo of broken dreams circling above my head as I wandered the city streets alone.

I soon ended up back in the psych ward and then the same halfway house/rehab program out in the suburbs that my mom had put me in as a teenager. I was miserable and lonely. The doctors weren’t quite surewhat I had so they diagnosed me with something called Schitzo-affective disorder. They gave me an anti-depressant called Celexa and an atypical anti-psychotic called Zyprexa. I was in group therapy everyday. There was an organic farm to work on down the road from the halfway house and after a couple weeks they let me volunteer there a few hours a day sewing seeds and potting up plants in the greenhouse. Eventually Iconvinced them to let me live there and I moved out of the halfway house and just came for outpatient care a couple times a week.

It took a couple months, but for the first time I could see that it was obvious the drugs were actually working for me. It was more than the circumstance – it actually felt chemical. Slowly all the horrible noise and thoughts faded and I started to feel good again. I remember watching an early Summer sunset over the fields at the farm and realizing I was happy for the first time in months and months. Once I moved onto the farm full time I would come into the city on the weekends to work the farmer’s market and hang out with my friends. As obvious as it was that they were helping me, I really just saw the
drugs as a temporary solution. They made me gain a bunch of weight. I always had a hard time waking up in the morning. My mouth was always dry. They were relatively new drugs, not even the doctors knew about the long term side effects of taking them. Besides which, the whole idea just made me feel really uncomfortable. How would I talk to my friends about it? What if there was some global economic crisis and instead of running around with my crew torching banks and tearing up the concrete I was going to be widthdrawling from some drug I suddenly didn’t have access to anymore? I didn’t want to be dependent on the drugs of The Man.


But I didn’t worry myself too much about the long-term. I was just happy to have my life back. As the leaves started to change color, I was already planning my trip back to the West coast, to my people in California. There was a room in a collective house in North Oakland and a job in Berkeley with a bunch of my friends waiting for me. I started hanging out with this cool traveling activist woman named Sera and we made plans to hitchhike across the country to participate in the big
Seattle protests against the World Trade Organization. A few days after the frost came and we put the farm to bed, Sera and I had hit the road. And back amidst the familiar, I slowly put my life together once again.

III.
The police picked me up wandering the streets of Los Angeles on New Years Day, 2002. I’d been smashing church windows with my bare fists and running through traffic scaring the hell out of people screaming the lyrics to punk songs, convinced that the world had ended and I was the center of the universe. They locked me up in the psych unit of LA County Jail and that’s where I spent the next month, talking to the flickering fluorescent lightbulbs and waiting for my friends to come break me out..

I was quickly given the diagnosis of bipolar disorder again and loaded down with meds. “That’s so reductionistic, so typical of Western science to isolate everything into such simplistic bifurcated relationships.” I’d tell the overworked white coated psychiatrist staring blankly from the other side of the tiny jail cell as I paced back and forth and he scribbled notes on a clipboard that said “Risperdal” in big letters at the top. “If anything I’m multi-polar, poly-polar – I go to poles you’d never even be able to dream up in your imaginationless science and all those drugs you’re shooting me up with. You’re all a bunch of fools!” And so I paced my cell.

Every time you get locked up it gets harder to put the pieces back together. Physiologically, the brain and body take longer to recover. It takes a lot out of someone to go through a mental breakdown. Picture being bipolar like a pendulum swing with suicidally depressed at one end, delusionally psychotic at the other, and with healthy and stable somewhere in the middle. If you swing over to one end you’re bound to swing back over to the other side. After months of sleepless mania it’s inevitable that some serious depression is going to follow, all your reserves are depleated.

Finally after the month in jail, a couple weeks in a Kaiser psych ward, and four months in a halfway house for people with severe psychiatric disabilities, I finally got it together to be able to move back into my old collective house in North Oakland. I was taking a mood stabilizing drug called Lithium and an anti-depressant called Welbutrin. The ground I was walking on was still a little shaky. I was only just beginning to be able to read after not being able to focus for months and months. I got a full time job really for the first time in my life, started going to therapy and taking really good care of my body. Made
it through my one year anniversary of getting locked up and felt so blessed that I had made it that far.

IV.
Early one January morning a phone call came telling me that my old traveling partner Sera had been found dead floating in the Susquehanna River in Maryland. She’d jumped off a bridge and taken her own life. The news tore me up bad, left me really confused and hurt. She had beenone of the most brilliant people I’d ever known – with a mind that was sharp as a knife and a heart that was full of the spirit of adventure and passion for living. In our travels together she’d helped me so much
in my struggles to figure out why my own life was so valuable. After I heard the news I sat in my room for a week and cried and cried.

And that’s when I finally started doing the research I’d been putting off for so long. After a year of not being able to read I started to pick up the books. And that’s when I really began the internal and external dialog about my condition and began to try to put the puzzle together, make some sense of it all so it wasn’t just a bunch of isolated pieces that didn’t fit together. I started talking to friends really openly and using the regular column I had in a punk rock magazine as a forum to talk about madness and manic-depression.

And that’s when I started really coming to term with the paradox that however much contempt I feel towards the pharmeseudical industry for making a profit off of all of our misery and however much I aspire to be living outside the system, the drugs help keep me alive and in the end I’m so thankful for them.

According to the August 19 issue of Time Magazine, 2.3 million Americans have been diagnosed with bipolar disorder. Of course, mental disorders are more confusing than so many other illnesses, more based on cultural norms that we’d like to admit. Diagnosis that people get stuck with for life are determined by a set of questions in an official book rather than any kind of concrete blood or piss tests. Diagnosis come in and out of style like fashion designs: it used to be “in” for doctors to diagnose children with ADHD, these days all of a sudden it’s “bipolar disorder.” It wasn’t really that long ago that “homosexuality” was considered a “disorder” which is enough to make you not want to ever step foot in a psych doctors office. Even the real illnesses are so easy to misdiagnose. Someone with bipolar disorder one week, might be considered schizophrenic the next, then “schizo-affective” the week after that. Plus, the drugs work so differently for different people –
that’s why there are dozens of different anti-depressant pills and they keep cranking them out.. We have yet to create a reasonable language to talk about it all so those of us who do talk about it end up with all of these sterile and clinical words in our mouths that feel uncomfortable and never get to the heart of things and very often skirt around the issues. When it
comes down to it, as a culture we don’t understand mental illness so for the most part we don’t talk about it and leave the opinions up to the doctors and the drug companies. In the end what it comes down to for me is that I desperately feel the
need to connect with other folks like myself so I can validate my experiences and not feel so damn alone in the world, pass along the lessons I’ve learned to help make it easier for other people struggling like myself. By my nature and the way I was raised, I don’t trust mainstream medicine or corporate culture, but the fact that I’m sitting here writing this essay right now is proof that their drugs are helping me. And I’m looking for others out there with similar experiences. But I feel so aliened sometimes, even by the language I find coming out of my mouth or that I type out on the computer screen. Words like
“disorder,” ”disease,” and “dysfunction” just seem so very hollow and crude. I feel like I’m speaking a foreign and clinical language that is useful for navigating my way though the current system, but doesn’t translate into my own internal vocabulary where things are so much more fluid and complex. I can only hope that in the near future we will have created better language to talk about all this stuff. But it’s really hard. As a society we seem to be still in the early stages of the dialog where you’re either “for” or “against” the mental health system. Like either you swallow the anti-depressant ads on
daytime television as modern day gospel and start giving your dog Prozac, or you’re convinced we’re living in Brave New World and all the psych drugs are just part of a big conspiracy to keep us from being self-reliant and realizing our true potential. I think it’s really about time that we start carving some more of the middle ground with stories from outside the mainstream and creating a new language for ourselves that reflects all the complexity and brilliance that we hold inside.

THIS NAME
Leah Ryan

I’m not on speaking terms with the man who gave me my name, Ryan. That would be my father. And we don’t speak. But this name Ryan is still my name.

Ryan - we associate this name with liquor stores and corner bars. A Ryan is a guy who erects a scaffolding on your apartment building. He pours you a Guinness. He goes to confession about once a year, give or take, only after he’s had a few. Mr. Ryan is a guy with a twinkle in his eye and a hole in his pocket. He’s a guy with a song in his heart, a joke on the tip of his tongue, and baseball bat in his back seat.

Nowadays there’s medication for guys like Mr. Ryan. In olden times he’d have no choice but to cry in his beer, break his furniture and drive his rusty, unregistered car off the road. Needless to say, even modern science can’t help the Mr. Ryan who refuses to go to a shrink.

In Europe, you can country-hop for pennies on an infamous airline known as Ryan Air. I took Ryan Air from London to Dublin for the equivalent of about six dollars. We were all strapped in and about to take off when the cheery, charming pilot came over the PA to tell us that our vintage German plane had a flat tire. We were advised to deplane and have a drink or two. John or Jack or Pat would have to run over to somewhere or other and get another tire, since they didn’t have a spare.

A flat tire. Only Ryan Air would have a flat tire and no spare. Bernstein Air or Peterson Air or Chang Air would have a real problem, like a complex electrical issue that they’d been lucky to catch, or a bearing that was ever so slightly worn. Ryan Air has a flat tire and no spare.

The friend who I was visiting in Dublin (I feel like I should add that his name is Robert Emmett Finn) was planning to collect me at the airport until he heard I was flying Ryan Air.

“Who knows when you’ll get here,” he’d sighed. “Take a cab. I’ll leave a key under the mat.”

Day late, dollar short. The father I don’t speak to, the father who gave me this name Ryan, stopped speaking to his family, the Ryans, before I was born. From what I understand they laid bricks and drove cabs and broke hearts all over the Bronx. All hearsay. I only have a couple of stories – how they showed up to dinner en masse, each with his or her own fifth in hand, and didn’t eat anything. Another story about Uncle Somebody Ryan, John or Jack or Pat or Frank. Not Liam or Finbar. The immigrants’ names had to melt into the pot. Liam and Finbar reek of dirty sheep and peat bogs and moldy stone floors. So Uncle Somebody Ryan had a brain tumor. He was some kind of union laborer – one of the big unions - and the union doc removed his tumor and also, somehow, took out his frontal lobe. The story goes that his five daughters (Kathleen and Bridget, but no Maeve or Fiona) all split the settlement money and bought five matching thunderbirds. So the story goes.

Where are all these Ryans now, I wonder and have wondered for what seems like forever now, when I find myself in the Bronx. Did they move to Jersey, or to Queens? The Kathleens and the Jacks and the Pats and the Bridgets? Are they in front of me in line at the Sunnyside Post Office, stinking of cigarettes and jingling their keys?

This name Ryan, I tried to stop speaking to it, to leave it by the side of the road, to wave goodbye and move on. To wash my hands. But then, what would be my name? This name is my name, this name Ryan. It sticks to me and I can’t shake it. Day late, dollar short, flat tire and no spare. Leave the key under the mat. I’ll show up eventually.

DINNER NUMBER ONE
Jean Railla
I feel terrible.”

“My throat,” mutters Steve.

“Why didn’t we cancel last night?” I sniffle, clearly sick.

“Why did we drink that last bottle of Lambrusco?”

“I feel terrible.” I moan once again. “I need coffee. Shall we get up and get caffeinated before the savages awaken?” I ask. It is 5:00am.

“OK. “

Steve gets up and puts on his a navy blue Addidas track suit bottoms and a Lower East Side Collective T-shirt and moves towards the kitchen as I curl up under our old comforter.

“Oh, you mean I should make the coffee and you should lie in bed and wait for me to serve you.”

“Exactly.” I rasp to him and start coughing.

Steve sighs.

As Steve goes to the bathroom, I can hear Sebastien mumbling “mama, dada, doo, doo, pee, pee” in the next room. I ignore him, waiting for my coffee, thinking about the dinner party night.

There were signs, early on, that my first stop on this quest to serve twenty-five Sunday night dinners in twelve months, would not go as smoothly as I would have liked. Firstly, Sunday didn’t work for Steve, so we had to host our first Sunday Night Dinner on Saturday. Not a good omen. Secondly, I was planning to launch the whole quest with a meal for my two best girlfriends, Kimberly and Laura, right around the beginning of spring. So perfect! So in tune with the season! So new! But alas, as my sister, the new age guru would say, it wasn’t meant to be.

The beauty, the genius, of having Kimberly and Laura as my first guests would have been that, because we speak almost daily, they understand the intricate details of my life and, as we do with those we love, they work around my eccentricities. For instance, they will travel to the far ends of the West Village/Soho region where we all live, to procure for me, say, fresh horseradish when I call at the last minute desperately pleading into the phone: “There is no way that I can complete the braised short ribs without it!” They will not call and ask if bottled will do or question my need for fresh ingredients. They will dutifully hit Gourmet Garage, Dean and Deluca, and every deli along the way. They also understand that I like to eat with my children, and the kids like to eat early, and that I have a deep fear of not getting enough sleep, and so will endure coming over at 5:00 for dinner at 6:00, and know that when they get in the door, they are going to have to entertain the kids. In exchange for this, I will feed them good, solid food, the kind they rarely have, what with take-out and dinner reservations the standard fare for most people of their class and professional obligation. I will serve them very decent wine, something light and easy––a Dolce de Alba, for instance, or a nice crisp Las Brisas Spanish white that belies its 9.99 price tag. Finally, I will kick them out and send them on their way around 9:00, which, at least the next morning, they will appreciate.

Laura is the godmother to my boys. Kimberly baby-sits our children, even though she always puts the diaper on backwards. They have listened to my endless monologues based on the following themes:
∑ Bowel movement stories: “You should have seen it!”
∑ Self-questioning moments: “Am I a good mother if I don’t spend every second with my child feeding them organic, whole grain, overpriced snacks and making sure they never them watch TV, no matter how sick, tired or hung-over I am? Have ruined them for life?
∑ Tirades against the system: “How can they judge a three-year-old? How can we not be good enough for preschool? Is it worth 20,000 dollars a year to teach your kids to finger paint?”

They have endured my inability to edit myself during my annual night-out with the girls, into the glittery world of New York after-dark, when at some invariably fabulous function, I get overly excited by being out of my apartment and then drink a bunch of cocktails and talk nonstop, either insulting someone without meaning to or, gasp, talking about my kids. All this is to say that these two women, are dear, dear friends. But here’s the problem with single girlfriends: they have disposable incomes, which allow them all sorts of fabulous things that are out of bounds when you are a part-time writer and your husband is a college professor. Kimberly and Laura have exquisite wardrobes, dine at all the best restaurants and jet off to exotic locations just when you need them.

The very weekend I had planned as my kick-off Sunday Night Dinner, both women, through some sort of weird cosmic white-hipster convergence designed to upset my precarious sanity, planned to be in Brazil, staying at the same = jet-set boutique hotel, missing each other by eight hours. Laura was going with a group of good friends who happened to be travel writers and food editors and the they would hit all the best, undiscovered spots, and Kimberly was going to some fabulous Brazilian all-night wedding, having been invited by her trainer-turned-lover, the likes of whom I had not yet met, but had discerned over many phone conversations that he was indeed a decent guy. With flights, stopovers and whatever other weird time zone things I never fully understand, it means that they will both be absent. Now, not only was I going to have to listen to each of them talk about how much fun they had, both individually and collectively, they would not be here for my kick-off dinner.

So while frick-and-frack were getting bikini-waxed and drinking sophisticated and fruity, but not too sweet, drinks poolside, I was sweating in dirty yoga pants and an old t-shirt, getting the house organized, ingredients procured and children napped, with a sore throat, gulping generic Ibuprofen and preparing for my dinner guests: another preschool family. I figured it was time to branch out. Make new friends. Afterall, the whole point of this quest, which I had felt so exuberant about only a few days ago, was about that seemingly clichéd, but all too important, idea of building community. Although magazines and politicians and leaders talk about “It takes a village,” what does it really mean? In a world of fast food and cell phones and blogs and 24 hours news—all things that I indeed like and partake in, but none-the-less can be alienating in their own ways—perhaps this simple act of cooking fresh food for others, for returning to the table, to sit and talk, to commune, if you will, could be my own way of giving back. And yes, political action is important. The environment is important, but in some ways, these ideas are abstract, outside of the day-to-day activities of my life. I am blessed with enough space to host a dinner party in a city where almost no one has them. My family has imparted in me a deep love of cooking and an almost obsessive tendency towards the preparing and consuming of food. These Sunday Night Dinners are my small way of giving back.

There is, of course, another, less selfless motive. As I enter further and further into the world of mom, of soccer, babysitters, Bob the Builder and playdates, these dinner parties are also my safety net to the world of adults and ideas. I don’t want to let the part of myself, the intellectual side, the part of me that is part flamboyant hostess, part provacteur, part social-mixer, die out now that I have children. While some women and men get that type of satisfaction at work, I don’t. As a freelance writer, I work alone, usually at the Israeli café across the street from my apartment, where the only other people there are the strange, slightly anti-social, relatively un-bathed freelancers like myself. We do not form a community.

The family we had invited consisted of Amy and Peter, and their two sons Webber (age 3) and Beckett (age 1). Amy doesn’t eat meat, which was another sign that things might go askew. We had gone over the confines of her vegetarianism in a series of emails where I had to ask my least favorite question: Do you have any dietary restrictions? When she answered yes, however politely; I was crestfallen. See, I am a person of the flesh, in particular, the pig. I come from people of the pig. The French, we like our pork, our ham and our bacon. The reason is simple: pork makes anything tastes incredible. Pinto beans with a ham hock go from good to unbelievable. Broccoli rabe, which is green, a little bitter, and a little crunchy, becomes even electric, greener and fresher, with the addition of a wee bit of pancetta. Call me piggish, but I can think of nothing better for a Sunday night dinner, even one held on Saturday, than pork loin, slathered in Dijon, and roasted with apples. It is cheap, easy and delicious.

On the other hand, I never cook fish, which is the one meat Amy eats. It seems fussy, makes the house smelly (and with four people living in 1000 square feet and an unventilated kitchen, stink is always a factor). I know it’s good for you, what with the omegas and fatty acids, but we take a fish oil supplement, add flax seeds to breakfast cereal, and mostly avoid sea creatures. However, part of this year-long quest is about hospitality, about creating community by serving others. Afterall, the party is not supposed to be about me, but about “we.” Fish would be served.

Peter works for a wine importer so I had sent him the menu a week ahead of time for wine pairing. Changing the plan, one of my favorite pastimes, was not an option. This also meant, that although I was sick, I would still be drinking, because this was the whole point of the night, and let’s face it, I really don’t have the personality to say no to a wine tasting.

So there were some things to feel if not anxious about, well then tentative. The other thing, the real thing, is that Steve and I barely know Amy and Peter. Our kids get along, though, and we seem to move in almost-similar worlds. Amy is a feminist organizer and a writer. We have been at book readings together. Steve, who has been a community organizer in the East Village and Amy know some people in common. As I mentioned, Peter works in the wine industry, which is ostensibly why we had invited them over. I was looking forward to talking about the business with him, hoping to pitch a freelance article on wine importing.

Two hours before they were supposed to come over, I looked around our apartment, which at that moment had about one hundred pieces of Thomas the Tank engines and train track pieces around the living room. I scanned the toys scattered on the carpet. What would they think of the obnoxious Lightening McQueen cars that make loud noises? (Very un-cool in the East Village preschool mindset where wooden, silent, educational toys are de rigueur.) What would they think of our Neo-Victorian, dark-library-style decor and the copious amounts of floorboard dirt we live with?

That’s the thing about having people over—it strikes a chord of vulnerability. In New York, you could know someone for ten years, and never once see the inside of their apartment. They could be hiding a toy soldier collection or chopped bodies—and you would never know. Maybe there is a reason for all this secrecy. Maybe bars, restaurants and cafés help us portray an ideal version of ourselves, one without the self-help books and dirty toilet seats and carton upon carton of Chubby Hubby in the fridge. All I could think about, on the eve of my first dinner party, is that I don’t know if I want to open up our own imperfect lives to Peter and Amy, who to be perfectly honest, I felt a little intimidated by. Amy has an Ivy League education and two hit books and started a feminist foundation and gets paid to jet around the country to lecture at college campuses. Peter is quiet and sardonic, to my loud and needy. They own instead of rent. They have a car. She has a personal assistant. Their children are better behaved then ours and their homemade Valentine’s day cards trumped our homemade Valentine’s day cards, even though I am supposed to be the famous online punk rock crafter and she is the big feminist organizer. I was feeling more and more sick and overwhelmed, and decidedly un-community-like.

At 6:00 the dishes were not clean. Steve was organizing the ingredients for his risotto with asparagus, peas and mint, a recipe from Jamie Oliver, which I thought would be great, but Steve seemed unsure. I was still in my yoga pants.

“Chicken broth? Can I use it?” Steve asked.

“Hmmm,” I stopped what I was doing, wiping a dirty hand on my dirty yoga pants and wiping a few dirty hairs from my brow. A conundrum.

“How about we don’t tell her,” said my husband, the ethicist.

“Well, I don’t know. I mean, the whole point of this quest is about hospitality, serving others,” I answered. “I don’t think we should lie about these things.”

“But,” I continued, knowing the chicken broth would add a richness that water never could, “She did mention she eats the occasional steak, henceforth, the chicken broth is in.” Moral dilemma resolved.

I arranged the cheeses I had purchased at Murray’ s Cheese Shop on a special platter so that they could come to room temperature. Cheese, especially cheese from Murray’s Cheese Shop, is one of my secret weapons for a good dinner party. Murray’s combines a European appreciation for milk fat and bacteria with an American obsession with conspicuous consumption. It was one of the first shops in American to take cheese-making seriously and has imported artisinnal cheeses from around the world for the past ten years. Three cheeses, one soft, one nutty and one slightly funky, are perhaps the ideal way to end any meal—and leave guests feeling taken care of.

I love going to Murray’s. Oh, the cheeses, the delicious, delicious cheeses! Earlier that morning, I had made my pilgrimage down Bleecker Street. In the store, the selection process was difficult, as it always is, with hundreds of cheeses to choose from, but with two kids along about to break a forty-dollar bottle of extra virgin olive oil, I had to be quick and decisive. Since the menu we were serving veered towards the Italian, I went for a creamy, hardly-sharp Gorgonzola, a nutty, almost like Parmesean, Piave, and a wine-soaked Ubriaco.

After selecting the cheese I had gone to the fish store, where the live lobsters entertained my boys and I deliberated over the fish. Steve doesn’t like scallops. Mussels didn’t look fresh. Wild salmon was out of our budget, which I should note; I had already blown at the cheese shop. Finally, with the impatient fishmonger staring me down, I went for the scrod. I would roast it with some herbs and call it a day.

Later, waiting for our guests, we were starting to think bad thoughts. No longer was our couples-only dialogue full of hope and promise, the possibility of a new, cosmopilitanism with our dinner parties. We had drifted from: “OK, we can do this, we really shouldn’t cancel. We always cancel. It’s why we never see anyone.” And landed squat into: “Shit, we already bought the fish, it’s too late to cancel! Why didn’t we call this off earlier! We’re too sick! It’s too much! I just want to watch the new season of MI5!” (For those of you yet to discovered it, MI5 is a fantastic British spy series; a more intelligent, dark and subtle 24, if you will.)

There is a feeling I have when sick and tired, one that has been much more pronounced since I’ve had kids and suffered the sleep deprivation that occurs in the early months with newborns where you never get more than two hours of sleep at a given time, which can only be described as feeling underwater. It’s as if you are floating through your life, watching things go by, but unable to access the part of your critical mind that you desperately need to. And then it is too late. The kids are crying, or the roast is burned, or the laundry wrinkled, or the writing assignment late. This was the feeling I had at 6:15, when I realized we had no parsley, and my children were circling me in the kitchen, like hungry sharks, reminding me that they had not eaten.

For some reason, I had asked Amy and Peter to come at 6:00 or 6:30, which is strange, because I always serve dinner at 6:00, in order to placate my children, knowing that they, intense creatures of habit, will not eat unless the whole family sits down together for dinner and without food, they are prown, as I am, to temper tantrums and melt-downs. We run a tight-scehdule in my perhaps misguided attempts to avoid all psychotic emotional outbursts. However, in my eagerness to be liked, a quality I am ashamed to admit dictates more of my activities than I would like, I had asked them over later because I knew this suited their lifestyle. I wish I could say it was hospitality but clearly it wasn’t, because no one in our family does well at night. We are an early to bed early to rise kind of clan, and without strict attention to these rules, the whole system breaks down, which can be good for no one, guests included.

So in the midst of cooking and getting dressed and wrangling children, Steve and Sydney had to go out for I sent for parsley. I opened a bottle of white wine, and as it slid down my very sore throat, I felt its magic begin to work.

For a little apertivo, I put out salami, olives and a loaf of stirato from Grandaisy Bakery, the most chewy, crunchy, outrageously delicious bread in the world, as good as any we had in Florence. (“This is why we live in New York,” says Steve every time we visit the bakery a few blocks from our house.)

I chopped one small orange chili pepper. Jamie Oliver’s recipe for roasted cod called for the addition of red Thai peppers, but the overpriced, slightly dirty, grocery store next door was out, and I was feeling too sick and overwhelmed to handle the throngs of tourists and black-clad Soho regulars populating Dean and Deluca, perhaps the most fetishized grocery store in the world. (It is white and steal, full of imports, with opera playing, models lurking around with non-fat lattes and milk selling for six dollars a half gallon.) So I settled for the tiny, round Scotch-Bonnet chili at my quasi-ghetto grocery store.

Just then the doorbell rang. They had arrived.

Immediately, Amy offered to help. Like good guests, they brought wine and desert. Steve came back with Syd and the parsley. We opened a bottle of Cascina Morassino Langhe Nebbiolo 03, which was red and smooth, which just the right acidity to cut through the fat of the salami and olives. Exhausted, Steve and I sipped our wine and took a minute to actually talk with our guests. One glass and a few slices of salami later, we realized that it was almost seven and our children still had not eaten; instead they were refusing salami and running around the apartment like a bunch of wild wildebeests, in behavior I would have never dreamed of performing as a child when my parents or grandparents would throw one of their formal dinner parties. Clearly I had to do something. I got up to heat up some leftover pasta for the four boys. Amy, ever-the brilliant organizer, helped out telling the boys it wasn’t that they weren’t eating with us, instead they were having a picnic!

Steve and Peter retreated to the kitchen. Steve started the risotto and Peter to began to handwash the dishes in the dishwasher and dry them because, we had discovered, we didn’t have enough clean ones. The men talked about building stuff and other man-talk while Amy and I shoveled pasta into our kids’ mouths. Somehow, the gender division already began to take its place. I was meant to talk to peter, but more pressing concerns, like warding off evil unfed child spirits became more important.

The problem with our dinner menu, was two-fold: there were not enough appetizers to tide everyone over and both the first and second courses both required last minute work. So while the kids went off racing with their cars and started to throw leggos at one another, the adults ate risotto, and I left mine to go back to the kitchen to rub the oregano, chile and parsely mixture onto the fish, slathered it in olive oil and roasted it for 12 minutes. While I was doing this, Beckett started screaming, needing a diaper change, Sebastien stole Sydney’s train and they started crying and I yelled at Steve to “Go help out the kids, will you!!!!!!”

Finally, diapers were changed, tempers were mellowed and the adults were seated once again. I served the fish with an aioli I had made from scratch earlier in the day, and salad. I took a bite of the fish, excited to finally eat. It was the most spicy, burning, fish I had ever tasted. Peter and Amy politely gave their compliments. I slathered on the aioli and suffer through the fish, while gulping the wine, a lovely white Vigneti Massa Derthona 05' which at this point, I can’t even taste because my taste buds are fried. Amy and Peter are totally relaxed and low-key. They go with the flow, but I still feel uneasy and nervous.

I served the cheeses, my last hurrah. At this point, when I waxed on and on about the gorgonzola, it felt a bit forced. If Laura or Kimberly were over, we would talk about the cheese for at least twenty minutes. The ratio of creamy to funk would be analyzed, and ways to pair gorgonzola would be discussed. I felt as if I was talking too much. Peter opened an amazingly light Sorelle Bronca Proseco, which was cold, effervescent and clean. Steve and I talked about our time in Bologna, the waiters at that one trattoria, the pasta, the sparkling white in carafes.

Then the kids started up again. I suggested a bath, and Amy went to administer it. I tried to remember the last time I cleaned the bath-tub. Steve started the dishes. I went to the fridge to get the Lambrusco I had been saving for a special occasion. I opened the sparkling, super-grapey, red wine and served everyone, including Amy, who was confined to the bathroom on kid-drowning patrol. Finally the kids came out in their jammies, looking so cute, and I turned on the TV for them, asking Amy and Peter first, if it is OK. Wallace and Grommit seemed the most sophisticated thing we had—it’s British afterall––and the parents settled into preschool gossip.

Then it was 11:00, three hours past my kids’ bed-time and two hours past my own. Peter and Amy started packing up the kids, as I sat in my chair, feet up, exhausted.

One down. Twenty-four dinner parties to go.

May 2007 RantRhapsody

Friends, acquaintances, co-conspirators, cohorts,

THE BROOKLYN RAIL PRESENTS RANTRHAPSODY #10
MAY 20TH, FREDDY'S BACK ROOM, 7:00PM

We just can't seem to sit still. We go north for one evening of odd
tales of criminality, then turn back and head south again, to Prospect
Heights and the ever-cozy cool of Freddy's Back Room (495 Dean St., at
6th Ave. in Brooklyn). If you haven't seen one of the readings here,
the room alone is worth the trip. Admission is free, the beer is cheep
and the crowd unruly. Please join us for the edifying, amusing,
anecdotal, analytical, political, polemical, and poignant musings of
the following angry and/or euphoric writers:

Andrew Boyd, author, Daily Afflictions, and essayist extraordinaire.
Katherine Sharpe, editor, 400 Words, a
literary-journal-meets-sociology-experiment, 400words.com.
Doug Cordell, Brooklyn Rail contributor, TV Writer, National Public
Radio Essayist
Keith Miller, Artist and Filmmaker.

WHEREVER YOU GO, THERE ALREADY THERE
Andrew Boyd

[The Mekong, Laos, February 19-21, 2005]

It's a funny thing: you come half-way round the globe to experience exotic Otherness, only to find that the Other you're defining yourself against is much closer to home.

"Tourists don't know where they've been," Paul Theroux famously claimed, while "Travelers don't know where they're going." This oft-quoted remark elicits a wry smile from most of us; it immediately hits home. We see the difference; we get it. It describes an ethics of travel that allows us "travelers" (because, of course, I'm a traveler, not a tourist) to feel superior and unique and cool, compared to those sheep-like squares, those "tourists."

We budget backpackers set up "tourist" as the Other. We see them everywhere, and we disdain them. They are the ugly Americans, the deep fried farang. They are the packaged mob, the superficial horde; the clueless ones, the inauthentic ones. We say: that's not us. We're outside of that, or at least trying to get outside of all that. We're roughing it, we're real.

We are not like them, and so: we are real. And we're here for the "unspoiled" Thailand, the "authentic" India, the "real" Laos. But once we're here, we find that this prized "reality" is pretty thin on the ground, because, inevitably, we are tourists too.

Sure, we may not pal around in loud-mouthed groups wearing loud-mouthed shirts or stay in hotels that are like transplanted malls. We may not always look at everything through a camera viewfinder or have the instinctive bad taste to buy an official stamped & signed "These Sneakers Climbed Diamond Head Peak" certificate at the top of Diamond Head Peak. But we all have the same damn packs on, and we all walk around with the same damn book — The Lonely Planet Guide to Whatever Fucking Country You Happen To Be In At The Time — and for the most part we're all going to the same "real" places to have the same "real" experiences. And by the time we get there, everybody's already there, and it isn't so real anymore.

This was more than apparent when, one early morning, in the sleepy border town of Hue Xai in Northern Laos, I got on board a cramped and rickety cargo boat headed down the Mekong river. Me, that is, and 65 of my closest backpacker friends.

The day before I had taken a bus North out of Chiang Mai, through hilly forests, past patches of still smoking slash and burn agriculture. The stewardess (yes, Thai buses have stewardesses) had great legs and served us little plastic cups of Coca Cola™ with ice that you could slip into little rings that hinged down from the seat in front of you. The captain of the turquoise long-boat that ferried us across the Mekong from Nong Khai controlled the rudder with a string run around his big toe. His legs couldn't compare with the bus stewardess, but in the world of big toes, this guy was the Jack Lalane of South East Asia. The Lao customs officials who took our passports on the other side seemed very very communist in green drab army uniforms with little red bars on their shoulders and manners perfected in finishing schools in Siberia.

A small army of backpackers must have trickled across the Mekong in two's and three's that day and secretly hidden themselves away in various guesthouses because the next morning, like clockwork, a strung-out platoon of bright green and yellow and blue and red clumps of Nylon and Gore-tex emerged from doorways and breakfast sandwich shops and processed through the town, all heading to the muddy berth where the boats were tied up.

The "slow boat," as it is called, is a retro-fitted cargo boat, and I’m sure that everyone of us had this romantic notion of being thrown into a raw cargo hold alongside sacks of rice, scampering chickens, soft-spoken Lao families, and a second-mate drunk on cheap Thai whiskey, and slowly plowing downstream on the flat, muddy waters of the Mekong, the Queen of South East Asian rivers. The river was flat and muddy, but that’s about where romance and reality parted company. The boat was a backpacker sardine can, bristling with fresh white faces, bright patches of Ultrex and copies of the Da Vinci Code. Barely a Lao was to be found. Minus the leg-irons, this was the Middle Passage for the Lonely Planet set, industrial-strength backpacker tourism's finest hour.

"I vas ere nine years ago," said Hermann, a red-faced German 30-something squeezed into the seat in front of me. "I vas ze only von, zen. I, unt vun ozzer. But zis—" implicating the rest of us with a toss of his head, "all zis, eez zo not vat eet eez about." All of us, no doubt, had read the same blurb in Lonely Planet Laos (or a similar blurb in Let's Go: Laos, Moon's Travel Guide to Laos or Laos: The Rough Guide), and as our Lao handlers debated the finer points of how-many-backpackers-could-fit-on-12-hard-wood-benches-and-hey-why-not-the-aisles-too, everyone was having some version of Hermann's This is so not what it is about thought. Between the lines, of course, he was making the added point that because he had been here before it had been "discovered," he was much cooler than the rest of us, and that he was the kind of guy who traveled on the edge, always one step ahead of the curve, always hunting down Alex Garland's "next island," that elusive undiscovered place that was somehow still "real." In fact, though, I think it was a bit of bluster on his part to cover for the embarrassment he felt to be caught and seen here amongst all of us. The truth of it was that everyone felt a little embarrassed — and not just for themselves, but about the whole enterprise of adventure backpacking. Embarrassed, and resentful. How had these rough edges gotten so softened up? Who had beaten down this off-beaten path? Was this my beautiful slow boat? How did I get here? The inauthentic Other was no longer those "tourists," but our fellow "travelers," and each of us wished that all the rest of us would go away, so we could go back to *really* being real.

In a way it's similar to how we feel about yuppies or hipsters. Nobody ever self-identifies as a yuppie, ever. Yet there seem to be tons of them. Who are they? They're "them," of course, but actually, they are us. And we hate them/us. We might like having the health food place around the corner, or the new boutique down the street, but our attitude is still "die, yuppie scum!" A more appropriate slogan, however, might be "save the neighborhood, kill yourself!" When I arrived at my first Burning Man a few years back, I wondered, as a contrarian, who am I now, in a city of 25,000 contrarians? In the same way, we disdain tourists and all things "touristy" — and yet who are these tourists if not us? In fact, it might be other backpackers that unnerve us the most because they remind us that we are not as unique as we had supposed, that we are, in fact, far more like "tourists" than we'd like to believe. We have met the enemy and...he too is on a slow boat down the Mekong.

And underneath all of this, there was something else: a creeping sense of dread that the world was no longer what it once was. That there was no elsewhere anymore; that everywhere had become a kind of nowhere anywhere.

Then again, so what? The river was beautiful, the breeze was lovely, the slowness synched up perfectly with all the becalming alpha waves still soothing my psyche after 10 days sitting in the Buddhist monastery, and there were lots of people to talk to, even if none of them were from Laos.

They were from France and Sweden and Canada and Germany and England and Spain and Australia and I did my fair share of talking and flirting and befriending among them, including some practicing of my anemic Spanish and French. Soon enough though, the chatting gave way to long stretches of quiet. The world slowed down a couple notches. Dangling my feet in the water, I watched the river go by: water buffalos grazing along the muddy banks, a scattering of bamboo-framed fishing nets among the rocks, every once in a while a cluster of huts. I had a sense of Time stretching out before us, and all around us. The world, or so it seemed that afternoon, moved in streams and eddies of Time; the world was built of invisible time vectors. As we slipped along the quietly sloshing waters, in some unreal other place, Internet Time was slinging hot light around the world, and New York Time was quick-stepping back from lunch. As we puttered along, an underwear-clad Lao fisherman who woke with the sun, and set his holidays by the fullness of the moon, would look up from his nets and wave us on. We might be moving in some existentially-benighted The-Journey-Is-The-Destination Time, but he was living in Already There Time. Finally, blowing past us every hour or so, furious little cigar-shaped speed boats scudded along in Motorcycle Crash Helmet Time. Throttles growling, they’d materialize out of some Doppler-compressed noise portal, churn up the air, and then dematerialize somewhere around the next bend. Watching them from out of our envelope of quiet — so dorkish in their oversized helmets, so set on getting there — we felt just that little bit like true travelers again. Watching them hold on tight as their bows slammed away at the water somehow gave us back our moral edge, however imaginary it might have been. They were moving too fast; they had chosen the wrong Time world; they didn't "get" Laos. Oh, but we did.

That evening, probably long after the speed boats had reached wherever they had been heading, we put-putted into the tiny fishing hamlet of Pak Beng. A far cry from hyper-urban Tokyo, I thought as I hauled my pack across the teetering walking board and up the town's one dusty road in search of a guesthouse. Again, the town witnessed a procession of brightly colored Nylon as each of the 65 passengers had their packs fished out of the hold or unlashed from the roof and trudged up the road to ferret out a dwindling supply of guesthouse rooms, probably doubling the town's population in the process. Our guesthouse did not have its own bathroom, so at 3am that night I found myself crossing the town's one dirt street to use a shared squat toilet, its spigot and plastic bucket a world away from Tokyo's touch-button Western-style seated-toilets with their multi-directional bidet-like water spurts and built-in virtual-flush audio (designed to mask any unpleasant human sounds). What better illustration of the continent's socio-economic antipodes, and yet Pak Beng's lowly squat toilet, its simple primalness illuminated by candlelight, more than held its own. It had presence, if you can say that about a toilet. Dignity, even. Was this the prized authenticity and "realness" sought by us adventure backpackers? I wasn't sure, but I photographed it, weighing the merits of doing a photo essay of Asian toilets, a project that would end abruptly a month later amidst deadly smells and ugly stares in a public washroom in Bombay.

Early the following morning we returned to the river, boarding a another boat, that was, if anything, slower and more densely packed than the one the day before. I was content to again let the world drift by and catch up on some reading, but for many of us by this second day the novelty had worn off. Folks were ready to lock Dan Brown away in some bone-dusted crypt and arrive already. Some even blasphemed about strapping on motorcycle helmets and doing a quantum switch to another time vector. But no one did, and soon the sloshing waters and soft put-put of the engine enveloped us again.

For long swaths of that second day I was tucked into the pages of The Life of Pi, a novel about an Indian boy castaway in a life boat in the middle of the Pacific. Needless to say, he desperately scavenges anything that floats by. Coincidentally, when water buffalo die along the banks of the Mekong, farmers often push their dead carcasses into the river where they bloat up and float downstream. Not just water buffalo, but other animals, even humans, it seems. A fellow backpacker I would meet a few days later who had just come down this same stretch of river told me she had seen a human corpse in the water, floating by, naked and bloated. Their boat did not stop. We never came across a corpse but we did pass several dead water buffalo that day, and at one point, as I looked up from the book to stretch my neck, I saw a pig carcass floating by. Why are we letting such good meat go to waste? I wondered. Until I remembered: I was not a castaway in the Pacific; I was a backpacker on the Mekong. I was not lost at sea, my life in my own desperate hands, but rather lost in a good book and, other than a sore buttock or two, quite comfortable and safe here on this slow boat with my 65 best backpacker friends, as kilometer after kilometer of muddy water and tree-covered hills and the occasional bloated carcass slid by.

That second afternoon slowly dissolved into evening. Long-angled sunlight bathed the river gold. And, finally, the curved temple roofs of Luang Prabang pulled into view.

Once again we disembarked and hauled our packs off the boat's roof and onto our shoulders, this time dispersing into the gentle lantern-lit streets of Laos' ancient capital. Once again, a multi-colored battalion of Ultrex fanned out in twos and threes, keen to find a cheap room in a guest house recommended by Lonely Planet, and curious to see this beautiful town of ancient temples and French colonial architecture we had traveled so slowly towards for the last two days. Luang Prabang, however, was already full of people who'd read about it in Lonely Planet. In fact, all the guesthouses recommended by Lonely Planet were already full. And so, Lonely Planet in hand, our index fingers place-holding the "Where to Stay" section, we walked from one guesthouse to another, stopping here stopping there, each group of us looking at the same little map on page 234, circling back one upon the other, crossing off guesthouse after guesthouse as we found them filled. Filled, no doubt, by those who, the day before or a few days before that, had, like us, come down the Mekong on a slow backpacker-filled cargo boat looking for Laos and beauty and adventure and solitude. It took me two hours to find a room.

GIRL, LIGHTLY MEDICATED
Katherine Sharpe

I:
It’s 1998 and I’m sitting on the long front porch at Kate Simpson’s house on Cora street in Portland, Oregon. Freshman year is over. The end-of-year parties have stopped and the Pacific Northwest sun, shy at first, has grown hot enough that we can sit here languidly, our feet up on the dusty railing, drinking amaretto sours and fanning ourselves in the golden afternoon. ‘We’ is me, Kate, and Kate’s three glamorous housemates, one our year and two older. They’re brilliant, and picture-perfectly Portland hipster. Lauren and Helen, the older two, rock the vintage-librarian look, thrift-store dresses and old-lady glasses frames. They study serious things like anthropology and linguistics. They know French theory and a dozen tasty ways to prepare seitan. I came to college hoping that women like this existed, and I’m flushed with pleasure to be sharing their porch, like a little sister who’s been indulged to stay up with the cooler older kids.
The hanging out is easy, and talk comes and goes; we wave away flies, wiggle our toes, and smoke. Then the moment comes that has made me remember this scene for almost ten years. Lulled into a feeling of safety by the sunshine and good companionship, I say something about antidepressants. Like how I’m on them. And have been since fall break, when I came back to college sobbing and addled with dread for no clear reason. Zoloft put me back together again and I finished out the year with friends, a boyfriend, good grades, new interests. But I felt strange about my chemically-assisted recovery, as though I harbored a secret, or had gained my happiness by means of a trick, possibly a dirty one. Was I a false pretender to collegiate success, to feeling good? A big fat phony? Maybe even a traitor to myself?
I don’t remember why I made the confession about my Zoloft secret but I can’t forget what happened next. Helen started to nod, slowly. “I take that too,” she said. “I was on Prozac earlier this year,” added Lauren. And on down the line we went; every person on the porch was or had been on antidepressants. Surprised, we all stared for a minute at the street. A couple stray weeds poked through the cracks in its pebbled surface, where the asphalt pushed together and up like volcanic strata.
“This is so weird,” somebody said. I must have known the statistics already, about how some garishly high percentage of college students take psychiatric medicine, but those numbers had never crossed into the reality of my own life. I would not have guessed that these attractive, admirable, flat-out cool older women could have felt the same kind of lacerating alienation that I had earlier the same year. Were we all, actually, sick? In the head? Could that be?
I thrilled to the dawning idea that perhaps whatever was wrong with me was not entirely a private disaster. I’d always thought that my depression, my prone-ness to fall apart, was a dark inheritance from my father, or maybe both my parents; I’d thought, or been raised to think, of our family as uniquely cursed. Only now it seemed maybe we weren’t. The individual had just become social, and I didn’t have to think of myself anymore as a mentally troubled kid, or just that, but as a member of a demographic—white female college students—that was being handed a psychiatric diagnosis and prescribed a pharmaceutical treatment for it at an alarmingly, no, suspiciously pronounced rate.
I’d been swallowing some Foucault along with my Zoloft, and that afternoon on the porch I thought I could almost begin to see the faint, but unmistakable, webs of power and capital and discourse that entrained us all in their subtle grasps. I imagined them as golden threads, twining around our wrists and ankles in the late-afternoon sun. How could we all be taking drugs? What was going on here? This suddenly seemed a story bigger than the question of personal misery, though it certainly involved that. This was the place where the rubber of personal misery met the road of culture and society and history. This was an interesting, freaky place, a Mystery Spot whose secrets I vowed, then and there—on behalf of Helen and Lauren and all the other bright, admirable undergrads sitting on their halcyon porches, taking Prozac and feeling weird about it—to try to understand.

II:
It’s 2007 and I haven’t been feeling good. I know the signs by now, but I’m always surprised by how real it feels. I’m going down. I know it because New York City is changing. I gauge my progress to a Bad Place by the proliferation of sadistic headphone-listeners on the morning subway. You know: the ones who are listening to reggae-tone at tinny top volume in a packed car just to fuck with me. Right: not just to fuck with me. I know. Nevertheless I find myself wanting to rip the earbuds from their ears and scream, “What’s wrong with you? You’re wasting your lives!” But I haven’t got the energy. And a small voice inside whispers that perhaps what I’m truly irritated with is myself. So I move to the other end of the car where, inevitably, another headset or three beat their staticky monotony into a carful of brains. And that’s how the days go, lately: Like an irritable robot I move from work to train to home, box to box to box.
No, things aren’t going that great. These last couple months I perceive with what feels like crystal clarity that my life has been a series of mistakes. They’ve flowed together like the tributaries of a giant river, to form the greatest mistake of all, which is the present. My flaws surpass my ability to understand them. I sit on the train gritting my teeth against the headphones, and I stew about myself. I know that this stewing is self-indulgent, a further mistake. I can’t stop it, though; I can only take note of it, and add it to the roster of flaws, errors, and false starts. Off this homebound, evening-rush-hour train is a street that garbage stretches down the length of. I’ll get off the train and walk the street of garbage to my room, above which lives a neighbor whose television set drones through the floor like a malevolent insect. I hate him. I hate myself. I’d like to leave this place but I perceive that my problems are portable, ingrained; I’d take them with me like a hermit crab who carries her home on her back. I only have about ten thoughts anymore; they repeat in the world’s boringest shuffle in my mind and there is, essentially, no volume control.
And then, a day comes when I do not feel this way. I wake up and instead of the sluggish clanking-on of the fear machine, there’s…a pale wash of green outside the billowing sheer black-and-white curtains that I bought at Urban Outfitters months ago because I liked them. Good choice!, I think. Pretty. The trees outside the window are leafed out. I wonder what kind of trees they are. Maybe my mother would know. Maybe I should ask her. My upstairs neighbor is walking around and his feet still fall heavily on the floor, and it’s still annoying, but not in a makes-me-want-to-die kind of way. More in a makes-me-want-to-look-for-a-top-floor-apartment-someday kind of way.
How do I explain this, feeling OK? It’s sweet, wonderful, and anticlimactic. I talk to a friend on the phone. I say the same things I said the day before: my job has ups and downs, my love life’s…ambiguous. But my voice is bright this time, and it isn’t just an act. The tone of my voice says: things’ll get better! I’m doing fine! There’s so much to be grateful for!
It’s a well-known fact about depression that depressives tend to see their lives, when they’re down, as thoroughly depressing—unmitigated failure from beginning to end. When the depression lifts, so does the monochrome life-assessment. Depressives are all revisionist historians. They know what it is to stretch wildly divergent interpretations around a single framework of facts. It’s a disconcerting feeling, knowing that the life story that seems like a laundry-list of errors one month will scan as not too shabby or even something to feel real proud of the next. We tend to like to think of ourselves as rational beings, our mental states as a set of sensible reactions to external circumstance. Given that, mood swings are humbling, and depressives know it better than anyone else.
One of the ironies of antidepressant medication is that they can make this phenomenon even worse. When you wake up one morning, without having taken anything, and feel better, you can preserve a sense of autonomy by falling back on the unconscious. You can tell yourself and others that you must have worked through it in your sleep, had an epiphany, weathered the storm. You can pretty much maintain that there’s an entity called you and that you somehow deserve credit for having turned things around. Add antidepressants to the picture, and it’s harder to congratulate oneself for figuring things out. They can knock you sideways, place a bold caesura in the middle of your story. Your fatal, well-planned, fully-substantiated beef with life evaporates—remembered but as un-feelable as a toe you stubbed last year—and you may feel relieved, but also a tad humiliated. And you’d invested so much in feeling bad. You had reasons, deeply held beliefs about how terrible the world is. And you took a pill, and they went away. Antidepressants can make you wonder whether your most painstakingly worked-out thoughts are just a scaffold thrown up to lend an appearance of objectivity to something as wispy and senseless as a mood. They can make it hard to believe in the reliable character we like to call the self.
During the Bad Period, I made an appointment and went to a psychiatrist with a little office off Union Square. Her cramped waiting room overflowed with knick-knacks, doilies, and an action figure of Freud brandishing a cigar. She wrote me a prescription for Celexa, but not before considering whether I might not have a wan, penumbral form of bipolar II. “Do you ever get really excited about things?” she asked. This was one of her diagnostic questions. Nevertheless, I liked her.
I haven’t cashed in the prescription for the Celexa yet. I’ve been relieved not to need it, glad to have avoided the knocked-sideways-ness of antidepressants for now. Still, it makes me feel safer—strange, but safer—knowing the prescription is in there, its crabbed handwriting nestled next to the ones and fives in my wallet.

III:
It’s 2007 and I go out to dinner with an old friend from college days. Like me, she now lives in New York City. She has a boyfriend, a cool job, a difficult boss. She’s half a dissertation away from a totally sweet PhD. I look at her across the table and she looks the same as she always has, right down to her body language and her way of dressing. I look again and see that she is also very much like the person we would have wanted, ten years ago, to turn into.
We trade small talk and then she tells me she hasn’t been feeling that great. She’s been trying to get off Effexor, and is finally off it now but she feels bad. She misses her boyfriend, who’s living in Providence. She’s no longer sure that the museum job was such a good idea. Maybe she wants to go back to graduate school full time. She looks at me with big, kindly green eyes that also seem a little bit tired. “The thought of having to get up and go to work every day for the rest of my life,” she says, “is making me feel really worn out.” She can’t figure out whether the bad feelings are a post-medication hangover that will fix itself as her brain learns to compensate, or an indication that she really does need medication after all, or perhaps, again, if they’re just life—which another friend told me less than a month ago, in a similar conversation, “is supposed to hurt.”
She doesn’t want to be on Effexor because she goes through withdrawal every time she misses a dose. But maybe she’ll look for something else, she says, if she goes on feeling this way. I nod, wishing I were able to give her more, or tell her, with authority, what to do.
Nothing’s changed since Portland, I sometimes think, except that I’m not surprised anymore. Antidepressants still fascinate me, but their ubiquity is no longer a shock. I’m not as fiery or indignant as I once was. Medications are a given now, part of the scenery. It hardly even matters anymore whether we’re taking them or not. They’re a possibility, in the air. Something else to consider. Once you’ve been taught, or told, to think of your moods as symptoms, you’ll catch yourself evaluating every feeling state for possible pathological undertones. When we feel, we consider family history and life choices and whether or not the sun is out, but we also think, reflexively now, about biochemistry and the goop in our brains. So I listen. And I tell my friend that I totally know what she means when she says she’s not sure whether what she needs is a different job or a different pill.
Ten years ago, during the Porch Moment, when I vowed to try to figure al this stuff out, what I wanted—in a very eighteen-year-old-kind of way—was a solution and a conclusion. I wanted to know whether we needed drugs; and if so, why. Even more than that, I wanted to build a world in which drugs would be unnecessary. To think my way out of it. Lately I’ve been appreciating that this isn’t possible. There’s nowhere to turn to for answers, because the questions aren’t empirical; they’re ethical and even aesthetic. No matter how many times the pharmaceutical companies run an ad informing you that depression is a disease “just like diabetes,” it never will be. There’s no pricking your arm to tell whether or not you are feeling the way you should. Within the very wide territory encompassing the relatively normal, when it comes to deciding what’s right for you, you’re pretty much on your own.
And so it occurs to me, as I sit, unmedicated but wondering if I should or would like to be, with my friend who is wondering the same, that this is how it’s going to be from now on. We will return to these questions, this conversation, for the rest of our lives. At the same time, the choice of whether or not to take antidepressants has started to seem less troublingly important to me lately. I’ve been starting to think that maybe the antidepressant dilemma is, at bottom, not so different from any of the other dilemmas of life, all rooted in the fact that we’re obliged to make choices, and in so doing, to foreclose on other things. I can’t know whom or where I’d be now if I hadn’t taken Zoloft when I was eighteen. I can’t know what things might happen to me if I started popping Celexa today. But the fact of not being able to have it both ways doesn’t torture me like it once did. I’m simultaneously less worried about not being myself, and less convinced that there’s a self to be, as in a measuring stick that could be consulted, a composite ideal me drawn up from indices of personality and potential projected along an axis of time.
I’m just me, here, now, taking a last sip of water and crumpling my napkin loosely next to the plate. Looking across the table at my old friend with the green eyes, glad to see her, to still know her after so long. The things I’ve ended up saying to her tonight don’t solve her problems or even define them. They’re just the time-worn things we say to someone we care about who isn’t feeling good, using the information at hand: Give it some time, think about what you could change, talk to me. We pay the dinner check and go outside where the post-rain sky is deep blue; the air heavy and damp. We hug goodbye. I’m not sure I’ve been all that helpful to her; I feel a blip of guilt and worry about friend things: Was I preoccupied? Did we connect? Then red lights slice around the corner, through the dusk, and I’m running to catch my bus, edging away as we call over our shoulders “Take care of yourself!” and “Let’s do this again soon!”

April 2007 RantRhapsody

THE BROOKLYN RAIL PRESENTS RANTRHAPSODY #9
APRIL 22ND, SPIKE HILL, 7:30PM

This month marks the THIRD Brooklyn installment of our lovely, lively
and literately non-fictional reading series, and our FIRST foray into
that land of the hipster known as Williburg. We're setting up shop
for the next three months at Spike Hill, on Bedford between 6th and
7th (FYI, from here on out we plan on codifying our restlessness with
a revolving-venue-plan. After Spike Hill it'll be back in Manhattan
for a few, then again to Freddy's, etc...). Admission is free, beer is
cheap and food is plentiful. Please join us for the edifying,
amusing, anecdotal, analytical, political, polemical, and poignant
musings of the following angry and/or euphoric
writers:

Anthony Lappé, Guerilla News Network
Monica de la Torre, Rail poetry editor
Justin Rocket Silverman, AM New York/Time Out NY
Mark Read, Rail Contributor and RantRhapsody organizer
Sabine Heinlein, Rail Contributing writer
Theodore Hamm, Rail Editor


NOSTALGIC THOUGHTS ABOUT RECLAIM THE STREETS: IN THREE ACTS
Mark Read

ACT I
Scenario for a day in the street.

On the morning of the 26th two van/trucks are loaded—one with large stereo equipment (including tape deck in case of pirate broadcast failure), and one with broadcast gear and turntables. They are in “position” about 5-10 blocks away from action site (site “A”) by 1:30pm (though not too near eachother). Each of these vans should be reachable by cell phone.

At site “A”, or nearby, with a cell phone, is Pogoman, along with a small group of 5-6 people, and tripod gear. They are the only people near the action site ahead of time, and will be responsible for detecting any unwanted police presence. Pogoman and only Pogoman is capable of calling it off. See contingency “A” for what happens if he does.

Approximately 30 street-takers- the “crew”- are congregated in a small park one subway stop away from site “A.” Desert Lox is there to guide them with a cell phone. These folks are responsible for getting into and staying in the street during the time it takes the crowd to arrive (hopefully no more than 15 minutes).

Meanwhile, at Union Square (site “B”), with access to multiple subway lines, a crowd is beginning to gather. They are colorfully dressed, they carry banners and signs, they are drumming and making noise. 300-400 policemen with paddy wagons are there to greet, forming a semi-circle around wher the crowd is gathereing. There is also a crew of about 30 cyclists within this crowd. If the police begin to arrewst or molest the crowd to an unacceptable degree, the crowd must be moved immediately. See contingency “B.”

When the marshals determine that there are enough people gathered at site B, and that everything is safe to go forward with the plan, a number of things happen in quick succession. First, they begin to distribute through the crowd small sheets of paper which have written on one side their legal rights and a contact # in case they are arrested. On the other side are written 3 sets of directions to 3 different party sites ( the three sites will include one downtown financial district location- ie the World Trade Court, one location way uptown if we can think of an interesting site up on the est side in the 80’s or 90’s, and one near Times Square). The reason for this is wso that if a sheet flass into the wrong hands, the cops still don’t know where to send the paddywagons. On the sheet they- the crowd- are tols to wait until they are told to go to #1, 2, or 3 (this will be done through a rapid whisper campaign. In other words, the truth as to which is the ACTUAL site will be revealed word of mouth, initiated by marshals).

So the leaflets are successfully dispersed. The crowd still doesn’t know where to go. Neither do the cops. Cue the cyclists, who ride off from the square in the opposite direction of where the actual party will be (to circle around a feew blocks later). Cue the sound truck to move towards action site (who will then call broadcast van) and call up to Desert Lox to move the crew so they can get a jump on the crowd. Make sure Pogoman is in plance and informed that thigns are in motion towards him. After these elements ar ein motion, begin the whisper campaign. Move the crowd. At about this point we should expect a squad car or two to be on the actionsite within a few, maybe 5 minutes. As soon as the action crew arrives at the action site, we redirect traffic and erect the tripod. The sound truck should be arriving momentarily, if it hsn’t arrived lread, which will be escorted into the now liberated street by the crew.

Within 5-10 minutes, before any significant police presence has arrived on the scene, the crew is joined by whooping crowds of revelers, who stream in to the street and begin to dance.

Contingencies:

A-The pigs are onto us from the beginning.
Let the crowd arrive. Meanwhile, radio van, sound truck, Pogoman and crew move to alternative site, within walking distance to Grand Army Plaza, at the corner of 5th avenue and Central Park South, accessible to N, R, and 6 trains. We call to Desert Lox to move his crew to the Plaza. Do NOT distribute flyers, or distribute alternative one which tells them to go to Grand Army Plaza and await directions. Or, most deviously, but also most perilously, distribute the flyers and then tell the crowd to ignore them entirely and go to Grand Army Plaza, which would get the police to think that we were going to Times Square. First we send the bike group off in the wrong direction—downtown—then, at the appropriate time, we get the crowd to move to Grand Army Plaza. Once we’ve regrouped we tell them where to walk (ie walk east on 61st street until you fid the party). Marshalls helping to lead them, along with the band. Before we’re ready to send the crowd, the action crew has been setting off towards the action site in groups of 5-10 people to come to Pogoman. The street gets taken moments before the crowd finally arrives.

B- The pigs begin seriously harassing and/or arresting the crowd before we’ve gotten a chance to do anything.
Immediately instruct the crowd to go to Grand Army Plaza via the N, R, or 6 train, where we will regroup. Get cyclists to go there also, as quickly as possible. Meanwhile, we remain in contact with Pogoman. If he says there are no piggies in the house, then, after reassembling a decent-sized crowed at Grand Army Plaza, we proceed with the original plan, and head to action site A. Desert Lox and the crew are still one stop away. Again, send bikes off in wrong direction, to have them circle around momentarily. Cue sound truck and Desrt Lox, then move the crowd to site A. What happens with the flyewrs in this case? I’d say abandon them entirely, except that they have the legal palm card stuff on one side. So we could pass them out while we are moving to the Plaza, continuing to hand them out when we get there, then word-of-mouth the ACTUAL site (A) to them and send them along.

If Pogoman has, in the meanwhile, decided that there are piggish in the house, which we ought to know by 1:00pm for sure with a little smart scouting, then he, along with sound van and radio van will have already left and been in place for a party near the Plaza.

Suggestions please, but no mindless negativity, or aimless anxiety.

ACT II
Art Towards an End to Enclosure:

"Ultimately it is in the streets that power must be dissolved. When you come to challenge the powers that be, inevitably you 
find yourself on the curbstone of indifference, wondering "should I play it safe and stay on the sidewalks, or should I go into the street?" And it is the ones who are taking the most risks that will ultimately effect the change in society ." Text from an RTS T-Shirt, circa November 1998.

Background: The pursuit of global free trade policies (also referred to as neoliberalism, or the "Washington consensus") really began to build steam in the late 1960's and early seventies, and was fueled by the promise that such policies would lift poor countries out of poverty while simultaneously strengthening the U.S. economy. The results have proven anything but beneficial for all but the wealthiest in society, with the median U.S. wage remaining stagnant over the last 26 years while the income "gap" between the rich and poor in the U.S. and around the world has become a chasm. Peasants, farmers and small businessmen in the third world have been thrown into virtual destitution as their countries' natural resources have been sold off to multinational corporations in order to finance crushing debts left over from loans lent to vicious and corrupt third world elites. The rapacious and undemocratic nature of corporate capitalist institutions such as the World Trade Organization, the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank have recently come under close and critical scrutiny as a result of massive organizing and direct action undertaken by activists from all over the globe. We are winning. Failure is impossible.


May 16 1998 Birmingham, England: As the G7 (2) nations begin their annual meeting, eight thousand revelers and levelers Reclaim the Streets! In what they call a Festival of Resistance. Balloons, Banners and flags of black, green and red swirl the air. A massive sound system dominates the town square, and 8,000 bodies writhe and rave for hours before the police finally silence the speakers. Solidarity actions take place in 21 countries around the world. The meeting is nearly shut down.

June 18 1999: As the G7 meets in Cologne, Germany, 40,000 activists take to the streets and the subways. In one action, on a train filled with G7 ministers and beauracrtats, 150 people stage a "laugh in," to draw attention to the absurdity of the purported goals of neoliberal economic policies. In London, more than 10,000 are in the financial district all day long, performing ritual acts of symbolic destruction and engaging in a roving street battle with police. Newspapers report millions in property damange, and the worst police violence the city has seen in 50 years. 76 actions, many of them massive street raves, take place in 43 countries around the world. In New York City, 600 people throw a roving street party in front of and all around the New York Stock Exchange, an action that is met with an overwhelming police presence, but still manages to unsettle the everyday of downtown for hours before the streets are finally swept

RUMINATION: As we walked through block after block of bigger than life brighter than bright dazzlement, with blinking billboard's hawking everything from status cell phones to savage blood-sport to pop-culture cool to eternal beauty to pre-packaged truth to official history, suspicion gave way to conviction that this should be our next arena for symbolic subversion. It was here, on Good Morning America Way, at 43rd Street and Broadway that we would make our next stand. Where we would raise the tripod and play the music that would set free our collective energies of creative resistance; where we would exchange our gifts, join our hands, sing and dance in free celebration. The logic and beauty of the choice was manifest, as clear as the Disney store's massive Mickey billboard and MTV's giddy crowds of teenagers waiting to catch a glimpse of the latest pitchman for "alternative" style.

Text from flyer for Reclaim the Streets! NYC November 26th action:
"Around the world a movement is building. An international tribe of insurrectionists has begun to shake off the foundations of authority and control. Massive sound systems, pirate radio raves, puppets, drummers, thousands of dancing feet are shaking off the chains of power. On November 26th, in concert with others in Seattle, in London, in Geneva, in Toronto, in St. Louis, and in NEW YORK will DANCE where the profiteers and their police states tell us we should not. As finance ministers and corporate bureaucrats meet in Seattle on November 30th under the banner of the World Trade Organization to continue their assault on the environment, labor, and human rights, thousands of students, farmers, environmentalists, and labor activists will initiate a massive street protest to SHUT THEM DOWN!

We in New York, acting in support, will take to the streets to CELEBRATE our own defiance! As they strive to put profits over people and a price on everything under the sun we will show them the bodies and the rythms of resistance. We will not be stilled. We will not be penned in. We will not be silenced. We will dance. IN THE STREET! On this Buy Nothing Day we will create a spectacle of sharing and giving and LIFE WELL LIVED that will not soon be forgotten. Come to the south end of Union Square (14th St. and broadway) at 2pm, radio in hand, to join the festival. RECLAIM THE STREETS!! Gonna be late? Don't! But if you are call the hotline for latest info: 212.539.6746, and check out the website at http://reclaimthestreetsnyc.tao.ca"

November 30th, 1999, Seattle WA: Smoke and tear gas mingle in the late-autumn air of downtown Seattle. The dying flames of a dumpster fire lick the paint off that overturned vessel of refuse. A man people are calling Captain America, wrapped in the flag with an old bike helmet painted in matching colors, ski goggles and a megaphone stands atop this great green smoking podium, encouraging and cajoling the throngs of people in the street. He is joined there by 4 or 5 comrades-in-arms. A drumcorps marches under the banner of the black flag, clad in green and wearing gas masks for their protection. They have been snapping their snare drums and clashing their cymbals amidst the worst of the mayhem throughout the day. Two women and a man furiously bang away at large conga drums. Eyes half-closed, they are deep in the trance of rhythm and oblivious to the writhing, gyrating, frenzied bodies whose movements accompany their playing, transforming the street into some kind of neo-tribal dance happening. Hundreds of police in full Darth Vader death suits stand astride armored para-military vehicles, rifles in hand as helicopters circle surreally overhead, waiting for the crowd to disperse or for the next order to attack. The people weather each barrage of tear gas and concussion grenades with a kind of courage that is both familiar and strange and truly inspring. The sun is shining, a rare thing for a November day in Seattle. The shops are closed. Spirits are high. The WTO ministerial is on indefinite hiatus and we aren’t going anywhere.

April 16 2000, Washington DC: The day begins before dawn, as we are trying to get into the streets before the police begin to lock down the entire area around capitol hill. We pile into vans and trucks, dressed in tuxedoes and foam, shark-fin hats, with lapel buttons declaring IMF=Loan Shark. I’m in the van with the Hungry March Band, who will serve as our pied pipers for the day, enabling us to gather crowds at will and move in unison through those sterile, dead and deadening DC streets that comprise, quite literally, the corridors of power. We form our parade and head down Pennsylvania Avenue, black-bloc in tow. We cross L, then head down the notorious K St, lobbyist lane, the locus of corporate and state collusion. No cops so far. I don’t remember when we first saw the blockades. I think it was on 20th Street as we were heading south towards the World Bank building. A surge of excitement, fear, pride, and surprise (that we'd made it that far) surged through our crowd: Home at last! There was a standoff between a line of riot cops and about one hundred demonstrators, who were blocking off a key intersection, trying to prevent IMF delegates from getting to their meeting. We lined up in the space between and put on our best show, a boisterous, satirical rendition of Mack the Knife, accompanied with a rockettes-style kick line.. It all went off as planned: Seventy-five people dressed in tuxedoes and shark-fin hats providing a contextualizing spectacle and song for the masses and the media. We gave water, lollipops and scrumptious snacks to the brave kids holding that line, then moved on to the next and the next, our numbers swelling and our confidence rising with each liberated city block.

As long as no Stalin breathes down our necks, why not make some art in the service of...an insurrection?" -Hakim Bey

ACT III
Nostalgic Thoughts on RTS

Looking at these texts and reflecting on the moment that they describe from the vantage point of today, I feel, in many ways, as anyone might expect to feel: Wistfully nostalgic; charmed by the yearning naiveté, saddened that the moment has passed, and proud to have been a part of it.

But something else also emerges, something less sentimental in nature, something both less and more personal, more specific. In looking at them I am reminded once again that both our ideas and our actions were shaped and influenced by a history, a particular and distinct thread of history; a thread that is indicated to me when I re-read that text from that old RTS T-shirt and recall our confusion over its authorship. Was it the work of some London RTS propagandist, as originally assumed, or was it in fact the writing of Abby Hoffman, as we were subsequently informed? This confusion is revealing; it points backwards, towards a lineage, an ancestry of thought, perhaps even towards a kind of specific social genome of refusal and resistance; of creative and defiant joy. Those words, it seems to me could just as easily have been written by Guy Debord, or some other radical Parisian kid in 1968, or just about any kid anywhere in 1968 for that matter, or Huey Newton, or Angela Davis, or Emma Goldman, or Joe Hill, or a leveler, or a digger, or a Gnostic, or a zealot.

There is a pulse that cascades in rhythms down through history, ever-latent, always present. It seeks to awaken in us an urge, an imagining, a turning away from the foreclosed possibilities that are presented to us, away from the deadened textures of a spectacularly conscripted, and predetermined future, and towards what I can only describe as a hopeful impossibility, the realm of a liberated imagination. The understanding that my compatriots and I played a part in this history, that we felt and responded to this pulse, as so many others before us have, and yet others will, is no small comfort to me. It is, in fact, everything to me. This understanding helps me sleep at night, helps keep me dreaming of future impossibilities and seeking unexpected insurrections.